Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers Have A Ph Of

The potency of a sodium hydroxide relaxer lies in its exceptionally high pH, a key factor determining its effectiveness in chemically altering the structure of hair. This article delves into the science behind sodium hydroxide relaxers, exploring the significance of their pH level, the chemical processes involved, safety considerations, and alternatives available for those seeking to straighten their hair.

Understanding Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers

Sodium hydroxide relaxers, often referred to as lye relaxers, are hair straightening treatments renowned for their ability to permanently relax tight curls and coils. The active ingredient, sodium hydroxide (NaOH), is a strong alkaline chemical compound that induces a significant change in hair's protein structure.

The Chemistry of Hair and Relaxers

Human hair is primarily composed of a protein called keratin. Keratin molecules are linked together by various chemical bonds, including disulfide bonds, which are responsible for the hair's strength, elasticity, and shape. Curly or coiled hair has a higher concentration of disulfide bonds, resulting in its characteristic texture.

Sodium hydroxide relaxers work by breaking these disulfide bonds in a process known as lye relaxation. The high pH of the relaxer causes the hair shaft to swell, allowing the hydroxide ions (OH-) to penetrate the hair cuticle and disrupt the disulfide bonds. This chemical reaction effectively "relaxes" or straightens the hair, as the bonds responsible for its curl pattern are permanently altered.

The Critical Role of pH in Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers

pH, which stands for "potential of hydrogen," is a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of a solution. It is measured on a scale from 0 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Values below 7 indicate acidity, while values above 7 indicate alkalinity.

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are highly alkaline, with a pH typically ranging from 12 to 14. This extreme alkalinity is crucial for the relaxer to effectively break down the disulfide bonds in the hair. The higher the pH, the more potent the relaxer, and the faster it can straighten the hair.

Why Such a High pH?

The high pH of sodium hydroxide relaxers is necessary for several reasons:

Efficient Bond Disruption: The strong alkalinity ensures that the hydroxide ions (OH-) are readily available to attack and break the disulfide bonds in the hair.
Swelling of Hair Shaft: A high pH causes the hair shaft to swell, which facilitates the penetration of the hydroxide ions into the hair's cortex, where the disulfide bonds are located.
Speed of Reaction: The higher the pH, the faster the chemical reaction occurs, reducing the processing time required to straighten the hair.

Understanding the pH Scale

To put the pH of sodium hydroxide relaxers into perspective, consider the pH levels of other common substances:

Battery Acid: pH 0-1 (Highly acidic)
Lemon Juice: pH 2 (Acidic)
Vinegar: pH 3 (Acidic)
Coffee: pH 5 (Slightly acidic)
Pure Water: pH 7 (Neutral)
Baking Soda: pH 8 (Slightly alkaline)
Soap: pH 9-10 (Alkaline)
Bleach: pH 12 (Highly alkaline)
Sodium Hydroxide Relaxer: pH 12-14 (Extremely alkaline)

As you can see, sodium hydroxide relaxers are among the most alkaline substances commonly used in personal care products. This extreme alkalinity is what makes them effective at straightening hair but also contributes to the potential risks associated with their use.

The Chemical Process: A Detailed Look

The process of relaxing hair with sodium hydroxide involves a series of chemical reactions that permanently alter the hair's structure. Here's a detailed look at the process:

Application: The relaxer cream, containing sodium hydroxide, is applied to the hair, typically avoiding the scalp to prevent irritation and burns.
Penetration: The high pH of the relaxer causes the hair shaft to swell, allowing the hydroxide ions to penetrate the cuticle (outer layer) and reach the cortex (inner layer).
Disulfide Bond Disruption: Once inside the cortex, the hydroxide ions attack and break the disulfide bonds that hold the keratin molecules together. This process is known as lye relaxation or thio relaxation.
- Chemical Equation (Simplified):
  
  Hair-S-S-Hair + 2OH- → 2 Hair-SH + H2O
  
  (Disulfide Bond) + (Hydroxide Ions) → (New Thiol Groups) + (Water)
Straightening: As the disulfide bonds are broken, the hair loses its natural curl pattern and becomes straighter.
Neutralization: After the relaxer has processed for the appropriate amount of time, it is thoroughly rinsed out of the hair. A neutralizing shampoo is then applied to lower the pH of the hair and stop the chemical reaction.
Conditioning: Finally, a deep conditioner is applied to help restore moisture and strengthen the hair.

Understanding the Risks

While sodium hydroxide relaxers can effectively straighten hair, their high pH and potent chemical action come with potential risks:

Scalp Irritation and Burns: The high pH can cause severe irritation and burns to the scalp, especially if the relaxer is left on for too long or if the scalp is already sensitive.
Hair Damage and Breakage: Overprocessing the hair with a sodium hydroxide relaxer can lead to excessive damage, breakage, and even hair loss.
Chemical Burns: Contact with the skin or eyes can cause chemical burns.
Weakening of Hair Structure: The disruption of disulfide bonds weakens the hair's overall structure, making it more prone to damage from heat styling, environmental factors, and other chemical treatments.

Safety Precautions When Using Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers

Given the potential risks associated with sodium hydroxide relaxers, it is crucial to take strict safety precautions when using them:

Professional Application: It is highly recommended to have a professional stylist apply the relaxer. They have the expertise to assess your hair type, apply the relaxer correctly, and minimize the risk of damage.
Strand Test: Before applying the relaxer to the entire head, perform a strand test to determine how your hair will react to the chemical.
Protective Base: Apply a protective base, such as petroleum jelly, to the scalp to create a barrier between the relaxer and the skin.
Timing: Follow the manufacturer's instructions carefully and do not leave the relaxer on for longer than recommended.
Neutralization: Thoroughly rinse the relaxer out of the hair and use a neutralizing shampoo to stop the chemical reaction.
Avoid Overlapping: When retouching, apply the relaxer only to the new growth, avoiding overlapping onto previously relaxed hair.
Regular Conditioning: Use deep conditioners regularly to help restore moisture and strengthen the hair.
Avoid Heat Styling: Minimize the use of heat styling tools, such as flat irons and curling irons, as they can further damage relaxed hair.
Avoid Other Chemical Treatments: Avoid combining sodium hydroxide relaxers with other chemical treatments, such as hair coloring or perms, as this can cause excessive damage.

Alternatives to Sodium Hydroxide Relaxers

For those seeking to straighten their hair without the potential risks of sodium hydroxide relaxers, there are several alternatives available:

1. No-Lye Relaxers

No-lye relaxers use alternative alkaline agents, such as calcium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide, or ammonium thioglycolate, to straighten hair. While they are generally considered milder than lye relaxers, they still have a high pH and can cause damage if not used properly.

Calcium Hydroxide Relaxers: These relaxers require a mixing step, where calcium hydroxide is mixed with an activator containing guanidine carbonate. The resulting mixture forms guanidine hydroxide, which is the active straightening agent.
Ammonium Thioglycolate Relaxers (Thio Relaxers): These relaxers use ammonium thioglycolate to break the disulfide bonds in the hair. They typically have a lower pH than lye relaxers but can still be damaging if overused.

2. Keratin Treatments (Brazilian Blowouts)

Keratin treatments, also known as Brazilian blowouts, are semi-permanent hair straightening treatments that use keratin protein to smooth and straighten the hair. These treatments do not break the disulfide bonds in the hair but instead coat the hair shaft with keratin, which helps to reduce frizz and make the hair more manageable.

Formaldehyde-Based Keratin Treatments: Some keratin treatments contain formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasing chemicals, which can be harmful if inhaled.
Formaldehyde-Free Keratin Treatments: There are also formaldehyde-free keratin treatments available, which are considered safer alternatives.

3. Hair Straightening Tools

Flat Irons: Flat irons use heat to temporarily straighten the hair. While they can be effective, frequent use can cause heat damage.
Hair Dryers with Brush Attachments: These tools combine the benefits of a hair dryer and a brush to straighten and smooth the hair while drying.
Hot Brushes: Hot brushes are similar to flat irons but have a brush-like design, making them easier to use and less likely to cause heat damage.

4. Natural Hair Straightening Methods

Stretching: Stretching involves using techniques to elongate the hair and reduce shrinkage, such as banding, threading, or African threading.
Rollersetting: Rollersetting involves using rollers to stretch and straighten the hair while it dries.
Braiding: Braiding the hair can help to stretch it and reduce shrinkage.

The Importance of Professional Consultation

Before deciding on any hair straightening method, it is essential to consult with a professional stylist. They can assess your hair type, evaluate its condition, and recommend the most appropriate treatment for your needs. A stylist can also provide guidance on how to properly care for your hair after straightening to minimize damage and maintain its health.

Understanding the pH of Neutralizing Shampoos

After using a sodium hydroxide relaxer, it's crucial to use a neutralizing shampoo. These shampoos are designed to lower the hair's pH back to its normal, slightly acidic state. A neutralizing shampoo typically has a pH range of 4.5 to 5.5. This helps to:

Stop the Relaxing Process: By lowering the pH, the neutralizing shampoo effectively halts the chemical reaction initiated by the sodium hydroxide relaxer.
Close the Cuticle: The high pH of the relaxer causes the hair cuticle to open. Neutralizing shampoos help to close the cuticle, which reduces porosity and prevents moisture loss.
Restore Hair's Natural Balance: Returning the hair to its natural pH level helps to restore its overall health and resilience.

Maintaining Hair Health After Relaxing

Regardless of the straightening method you choose, maintaining your hair's health is crucial. Here are some tips for keeping your hair healthy after relaxing:

Moisturize Regularly: Relaxed hair tends to be drier than natural hair, so it is essential to moisturize it regularly with a hydrating conditioner or leave-in treatment.
Use Protein Treatments: Protein treatments can help to strengthen the hair and repair damage caused by chemical treatments.
Avoid Overprocessing: Be careful not to overprocess your hair with relaxers or other chemical treatments.
Trim Regularly: Trim your hair regularly to remove split ends and prevent breakage.
Protect Your Hair at Night: Sleep on a satin pillowcase or use a satin scarf to protect your hair from friction and breakage.
Eat a Healthy Diet: A healthy diet that's rich in vitamins and minerals can help to promote healthy hair growth.

Conclusion

Sodium hydroxide relaxers are potent hair straightening treatments that rely on their high pH to break the disulfide bonds in the hair. While they can effectively straighten hair, they also come with potential risks, including scalp irritation, hair damage, and chemical burns. It is crucial to take strict safety precautions when using sodium hydroxide relaxers and to consider alternatives if you are concerned about the potential risks. Consulting with a professional stylist is essential for determining the most appropriate hair straightening method for your needs and for maintaining the health of your hair. Remember, healthy hair is beautiful hair, so prioritize its well-being, regardless of the style you choose.